OK..that sucks. Broke my strut.

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Fab72
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I was in the process of changing over to my new you beaut King Springs.

3 down, 1 to go when SNAP.  The top nut on my LHF strut broke off.  It's a Saturday, just after lunch and no-one is either open or has parts in stock.  No surprises there.

I rang Sprint Auto.  They don't have any but can order them in first thing Monday morning.  Reassuringly, they quoted part numbers and even confirmed that it was for a MR455401 housing.  Yay!

I rang Super Cheap ( I'm sure just to humour myself).  After spending 25 minutes on the phone repeating the year, engine, model etc, the counter attendant asks if I want them for the boot or the bonnet.  WTF?  Arrrgghhh!

Mitsi dealers, Web suspension and Peddars aren't answering.

Anyone here in Adelaide know where I could get my hands on one this afternoon?

Cheers...Fab(io)

 

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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It's gone from bad to

It's gone from bad to worse.

I've just realised that the struts are not an insert.  There's no way that you can remove the OEM guts and insert an aftermarket insert.  Looks like two whole new struts, body and insert required.

To quote another 4X4 company's catch phrase, "BUGGER".

So does this mean I can go for the ones with a higher seat?  Mine are the 243mm jobs.

 

Fab(io).

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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Now I'm seriously confused.

Now I'm seriously confused.

Looks like I can order and fit the struts with the 25mm higher plate/seat/saddle what ever you want to call it to my 1999 io. Great, that will take care of the next problem I was facing which was increasing my tyre size.

However, and despite reading just about every post in this section about spring rates, struts etc.  I can't work out whether I should be fitting my standard springs back into the struts with the higher plates or continue on fitting my raised King Springs.  There is talk of the strut inserts topping out.

So this is where I stand right now:.

1.  Can I fit the struts with higher seats/plates/saddles (100% sure?)  Yes/No?

2. If I fit my raised King Springs with the higher seated struts, will it top out my strut insert?  Yes/No?

3.  And if so, does anyone make a strut insert with longer travel?

4.  Last but not least.  How far up can you go (just on spring/strut modifications) before you upset steering/wheel alignment angles and start chewing out the CV joints?

 

I know...soooo many questions.

Fab(io).

 

          "Love that car"

natsterrr
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Well I haven't done any of

Well I haven't done any of this myself, but from what I've learned on here, you would be best off ordering both new struts for the front. There is no official replacement with longer travel, but your original springs in new struts should give 30-40 mm lift.
I think somone suggested that you could increase down travel by up to 50mm before your cvs are in trouble. This could be done with a strut spacer or strut extender. I think a 25mm spacer or extender would result in closer to 40mm lift at the wheels, but that's just a guess. KTM300 or NZIO would be the experts on this.

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

Fab72
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Thanks for that.  If that's

Thanks for that.  If that's the case... I'll have some brand new front King Springs for sale in the not too distant future.

          "Love that car"

NZIO
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Struts and springs

First question - have you measured your strut and confirmed that you definitely have the early one with lower spring pan. Check the strut data thread if you need to check this.

Assuming you do, and you want 30mm of suspension lift then just refit your original springs with the kyb 334405 struts (higher spring pan). I don't know what the raised king springs you have would do different - I wonder if they're "raised" relative to the later type springs in which case they might be pretty much the same as the original ones you've got.

How did the top strut nut break? There is a torque setting which I can't remember off the top of my head, but in the tech manual front suspension section.

Tyres - I'm really happy with the kumho 225/75 16s. Very occasionally I'll get a slight rub at full lock going up or down a kerb or something, but now I know about it I usually just back off full lock before it happens. Claudio likes his BFGs too - plenty of choice at that size or 225/70.

Claude io
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Spring, stut, higher, lower, 25mm, 50mm.....

Ok, just have a seat, take a cold beer (or a hot chocolate!) and try to relax:).

Lets go one step at the time...you forgot to read, read, read....:) I will try to explain, measurement are not exact, and I haven't done it, but I think that I understood the basic.

There are two strut, yours seems to be the one with the lower plate (around 245mm,  from bottom to the weld). Because of this, there is two different spring, one for the 245mm strut, and the other for the 265mm strut. The one for the 245mm strut should be around 20mm longer than the 265mm strut (because the plate is lower).

If you put the 245mm spring on the 265mm strut you will have a lift of 20mm (265mm less 245mm), by lifting you car that way, the insert of the strut will go 20mm higher too, so you will loose 20 mm wheel drop. The actual wheel drop is around 80mm, if you lift you car by 20mm the wheel drop will be 80mm less the 20mm. The higher the spring the more you loose the wheel drop and it can be unsafe as the strut will max out when driving on a pothole. This said 20mm should be ok, I don't know what is the maximum...Check "Granthem's thread"

I don't know if your new spring are for the 245mm or 265mm strut, if the lift is equal front and rear then they are ok for your car. If the lift at the front is 20mm higher than the back they are for the 265mm strut.

I think that Kony makes an insert for the io, your strut have to be at least 51 mm in diameter. And you can then, fit the insert with some spacer at the bottom of the strut to compensate the lift of the spring (not loosing the 80mm drop of the wheel) Check "Fron Coilover Suspension design" could be an option.

The 265mm strut will be a great thing to have as you can fit bigger tyres, and in effect giving you a lift too, but you need the spring to go with them too!

For your question 1, I think that is is safe to say that yes you can fit then, by fitting your spring that should give you around 20mm lift (the difference between 245mm and 265mm)

For your question 2, No I wouldn't because they could potentially max out your strut. see above. Check "Granthem's thread". But Nzio have some strut extender, could be an option...

For your question 3, See above, they are some strut insert but not longer, that I am aware off ( hum, no idea at all...), but a spacer at the bottom of the strut will compensate.

For your question 4, Hard for me to say...some say 30mm some 50mm, But I would say that I wouldn't go higher than 50mm for my car (but there are the option of the diff drop, I have learn that one here too...).

Most of this, I have learn from other on this site, but as my wife keep saying "I could be wrong..." I hope that I didn't confuse you more!

Happy io.

 

 

 

natsterrr
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Leverage

Remember that there is a leverage effect because the strut is positioned inside the wheel, closer to the fulcrum of the front suspension. So a 20mm longer spring will lift the wheels by more than 20mm, NZIO suggests it is closer to 30mm at the wheel with the longer spring in the newer strut.
It is my suspicion that, aside from the factory and the people on this forum, none of the companies realise that there was a change in the strut pan height at some stage in the production of the iO. And that probably includes mitsubishi Australia! So it's a guess as to whether the after market springs have been designed for the lower or higher spring pan. I would assume that most would have designed them early in the iO's production, meaning they are probably too long for the newer struts.
We need someone to make an ADR approved steel winch bar so that we can make use of the bigger springs available!

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

Fab72
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I have just done a side by

I have just done a side by side measurement of my standard spring (from a MR 455401 low pan strut) versus a raised height King spring.

In their static position, the standard one is actually taller at approx. 380mm.  Whereas the Kingy measures in at approx 365mm.  The difference I suspect is that the King won't drop as much under the vehicle's weight due to the thicker diametre steel used in the coils.

I took some pix ....just don't know how to upload them.  sad

If any one needs any pics or measurements while I have her in pieces...sing out.  I suspect she's going to be up on stands for the best part of this week.

Regards.... Fab(io).

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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...okIgno

          "Love that car"

Claude io
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Loading of pictures

When you are log in, under your name click on "my account", then click to "file browser", then "upload"

More here: http://www.pajerio.com/forum/how-attach-images-post

Yes, I think that you are right regarding the height difference between the spring while off the car.

If the king spring don't fit the new strut (ie 20mm higher or more lift that the rear), you might be able to exchange them for the good one, they make them....so...

And don't worry it will come good...

Happy io

 

Fab72
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Thanks... I'll have a look at

Thanks... I'll have a look at the file upload thing.

Yeah...after the initial disappointment and unexpectted hit to the wallet, I've calmed down.  This is not my primary mode of transport so it's not like I'm without wheels.  I might actually stuff around a bit and see what effect the King springs have on (what will be) my new higher plated struts.  You know...kind of share the knowledge.  If it kills my droop/drop, then I'll just stick the stock springs back in...no big deal.

In the mean time...I can focus on other projects I've been putting off, like making a roof console for my GME UHF.

Fab(io)

 

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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"Raised" King Spring (fronts)

"Raised" King Spring (fronts) on the left.  Standard (MR455401) Spring on the right.

Broken LHF strut in the background.angry

          "Love that car"

johnicue
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I second what claud IO has

I second what claud IO has mentioned to you fab.

 

Here are the front springs from my 2002 SWB io which confirms that my struts have the 25mm higher pan.

Mine where the same height,

Fab72
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Hi Johnicue, My Kingy's are

Hi Johnicue,

My Kingy's are KMFS 900 too.  So if you fitted then to your 2002, then I should still be able to use my Kingy's with my new higher pan struts.

I think????  Is that right?  It'll be the same struts and same springs as yours(?).

Fab(io)

          "Love that car"

johnicue
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  yep! I believe so, as my

 

yep! I believe so, as my struts are the kyb's with the higher spring pan.

p.s " Love those plates"

natsterrr
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There you go

Thanks guys, what a great demonstration of the older iO's having longer springs compared to the newer ones!

Makes me wonder if the king springs were designed to match the later model struts, where Dobinsons may be designed to match the older ones...?

Size is not important; it's how you use it that matters!

Fab72
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I reckon you're right

I reckon you're right Natsterrr.

 

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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PAJIO 4

johnicue wrote:

 

yep! I believe so, as my struts are the kyb's with the higher spring pan.

p.s " Love those plates"

Thanks Johnicue.  I'm hopeless when it comes to remembering number plates, and I was up for new plates anyway after bringing her from Horsham to Adelaide.  For those in the know, it's pretty obvious what it stands for.  For those that don't ......well, no great loss.

 

Fab.

          "Love that car"

Claude io
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number plate

Only one problem with these plates....If I see them in a car park...I will be tempteddevil

The 100% way to make sure about these spring is, as you mentioned before, put one on and see...the lift at the back should be different than the front, if they are for the 265mm strut, your front lift should be lower (if any at all) than the rear one. By looking at your pics and other comment, it's looking good, but you never know, spring have they own mind, in they "relax" position.

Like my car, you have a fair amount of kms and new struts won't be a complete lost of money. The new one should be a bit stiffer, and should be a better match for the new spring as well.

I can see a ...Happy io...on his way:)

NZIO
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spring comparison

I'll be interested to see how you find the kings compare with standard springs on the new struts. Assuming you upgrade the rears as well (astina or king) my guess is you'll prefer the heavier kings on the front as they should be a better match to the rears.

bob_oz
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More sag

NZIO wrote:

I'll be interested to see how you find the kings compare with standard springs on the new struts. Assuming you upgrade the rears as well (astina or king) my guess is you'll prefer the heavier kings on the front as they should be a better match to the rears.

I recon std long springs compressed to fit the new style struts would be ok if you aren't going to load up your io but could sag under load, kings being stiffer to start with will rebound better under load. Long soft springs and good shocks will give a better ride if not under heavy load.

Guess it all comes down to if you find the ride of the kings too stiff or expect to do more kms 1 up on sand/corrugstions.

I'm very keen to hear how you go as i'm still trying to decide, if I get some old io springs for cheap i'll post up a review.

.

NZIO
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early io springs & late struts

So after a month or so and several hundred kms of driving on and off road with BA astina rears and early springs+late struts+50mm extenders on the front...

Ride height in terms of the gap between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch is slightly higher at the rear than the front. I thought this was out of whack, but I've been noticing factory setups on various 4x4s and actually this seems pretty common.

The front droop with 50mm extenders is as far as you can go without the drive shaft popping out. At normal ride level it's +30mm over standard and looks to be within a normal range I think - I don't expect to see any issues there though time will tell.

I've ordered 20mm spacers but will only fit them at the same time as dropping the diff. Work has been a bit crazy busy this year, so it might be a while before that happens.

It terms of spring rate - I'm entirely happy with how it behaves off road and on-road under normal driving, and love having the extra clearance I got from the lift and bigger mud tyres. I do find though that the front dives down more than I would like in a sudden tarmac stop. I'm theorising here, but as the spring rate hasn't changed from standard I think this is just a symptom of the body being higher up. Regardless of the reason, I think a slightly stiffer front spring would be preferable - hence my comment above saying I think Fabio will prefer the Kings. And Bob, I agree that if you are setting up for a loaded vehicle you will certainly be happier with the heavier springs.

fordem
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Extenders & droop

NZIO wrote:

The front droop with 50mm extenders is as far as you can go without the drive shaft popping out. At normal ride level it's +30mm over standard and looks to be within a normal range I think - I don't expect to see any issues there though time will tell.

I know it's been a couple of years since this post, I have no idea if NZIO still visits - but if you do - how do you feel about this now - were there any long term adverse effects of running the 50mm extenders?

bob_oz
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extenders

He and one other have been running them - 

Zero issues as long as the bump-stop height is compensated

.

fordem
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My interest was more in the how the CV axles were holding up...

but having said that, I have given the need for bump stop extensions some amount of thought, especially after I recognized that the iO front suspension design appears to use the bump stops as an auxiliary spring - they have relatively long, soft coils and there is not a lot of up travel before the bump stops come in to play.

I'm not certain how critical the need for extensions is (and at a loss as to how to determine if they are in fact necessary), given that the replacement springs that will be fitted (Dobinsons) are both shorter & quite a bit stiffer - I have a pair of 50mm extensions sitting on the shelf ready to go (if droop or lack thereof does turn out to be an issue), along with a pair of after market OEM replacement strut boots with integrated bump stops that measured at 100mm, so we would have to be crushing the bump stops by at least 50mm before the strut bottoms out, and as a last resort, I think I can put my hands on some old poly bushes that are about the right shape & size to slip over the strut rod/extension to act as a quick bump stop extension.

The strut boots fitted to the car right now are some random after market replacement, with a bump stop of undetermined length - it was bought before I understood the "in's & out's of tuning front suspension through the use of auxiliary springs/bump stops - so it's there primarily for protection from the elements and to prevent metal to metal contact on full compression - it may even be contributing to the degree of "nose dive" I experience whilst braking.

Claude io
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CV axle holding up

Hello Fordem,

I have had the extender on my io, never had a problem with them. As for bump stop since you are going to use a much stiffer spring, I doubt that you will need them. This said, on mine I used the rear bump stop to fit on the front, I drill a hole in the middle and it worked out good. I used them mostly to hide the extender in case of unwanted inspection....I was checking them often (the extender) and while they never moved, not inspecting them is not advisable.

Happy io

fordem
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You know, I don't think I've heard you mention using extenders .

I didn't know you'd fitted them Claude - so in front you would have had the high pan struts with the matching King springs, with 50mm extenders and bump stops extensions - is that right?

Claude io
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extender

I was using the highpan strut (kyb 334405) with the KMFS900, I know I am the first one to say to not use them together but with the extender it works. I do not advice to use extender as it add a weak point, but if you are aware and accept the risk, keep an eye on it....it is an option. I prefer to add the "warning" in my reply, I do understand that you know what they are, it is more for other who may read this later on....

Happy io

fordem
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How much lift did you have Claude?

I've been through your build thread - it's a little difficult keeping track of the various changes...

The last comment I saw before the sale you had the KMFS900 springs on the 334405 struts, with strut extenders - what is not clear is if you still had the strut top spacers still fitted - pictures suggest you were using the stock upper strut mounts.

My questions are - how much lift did you have at the front, and also what did you have at the back and how much lift did you have there?

Claude io
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lift

You are correct, no spacer, using original strut mount, about 40mm lift at the front and rear give or take, but definitely no more than 50 mm.

Happy io

johnicue
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Guys, I purchased the dobsons

Guys,

I purchased the dobsons before the Kings Springs & took them back for a refund, They are NOT LONGER. They were approx 365mm

http://www.pajerio.com/forum/new-dobson-30mm-lifted-front-raised-springs...

Post 10! They are the same height, thicker coils & more of them. I just wish I had taken some photos of the dobsons.

I have tested both the Dobsons & the King Springs, chalk & cheese when it comes to ride!

Claude io
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original spring

I am not sure if everyone have noticed (I might be the last one that did! again!) . On  the pictures from 12 and 13, we can see that the 2002 (265mm strut) has half a turn more than the older spring (245mm strut). So because of this we can tell them apart, even if they are out of the car in they "relax" position as I mentioned before.

So I think that it is safe to say that the king spring on ebay are for the 265 mm strut, is it?

When mentioning brand of spring we should indicate they rating as well, (ie 150lbs for the original, 175lbs, I think,  for the kingspring...) as one supplier might change the rating in the future or make different rating already. 

Fab old strut could be great for someone wanting to do a coilover modification.

Happy io

Fab72
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Guys,I've spent a few nights

Guys,

I've spent a few nights thinking this over and my theory is that the relaxed ride height of my slightly shorter King springs should actually end up being about the same as my std springs when either fitted to the shorter or longer struts.  The std springs should compress easier and probably end up sitting at the same compressed rate as the King springs when under static vehicle load.

Otherwise, in theory (again) the "one size fits all "King spring front and rear set would have the front sitting way higher or lower than the rear depending on if you have the short struts, or the long struts.  Either way, customers would end up being unhappy which ever way they went.

The King springs, being stiffer won't squat down as much compared to the std springs when braking heavily.   They should also prevent sudden loss of altitude as experienced on the Birdsville Track when crossing dry river beds at speed. (Speaking from "bad" experience).

Well only one way to prove this out ..... tomorrow (fingers crossed) my struts will arrive.  My money is on longer struts with King Springs as the best option and airing down the (higher profile) tyres to compensate for corrugations..now that I'll be able to fit bigger donuts.

BTW..... Sprint Auto parts in Adelaide.  $310.00 the pair - KYB.  Ordered Monday...pick up hopefully Wednesday.

Stay tuned.

Fab(io).

P.S.... if anyone needs any measurements or photos done of the disassembled struts etc...now's your last chance.

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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Well spotted

Claud io wrote:

I am not sure if everyone have noticed (I might be the last one that did! again!) . On  the pictures from 17 and 18, we can see that the 2002 (265mm strut) has half a turn more than the older spring (245mm strut). So because of this we can tell them apart, even if they are out of the car in they "relax" position as I mentioned before.

So I think that it is safe to say that the king spring on ebay are for the 265 mm strut, is it?

When mentioning brand of spring we should indicate they rating as well, (ie 150lbs for the original, 175lbs, I think,  for the kingspring...) as one supplier might change the rating in the future or make different rating already. 

Fab old strut could be great for someone wanting to do a coilover modification.

Happy io

 

Well spotted Claudio.  I didn't even notice.

          "Love that car"

Fab72
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Side by side new strut vs. old strut.

Hello again.

For those of you that want to see the difference between the old MR455401 (1999 5 door) strut against the new 334405 KYB strut with the higher spring pan...well here it is.

          "Love that car"

johnicue
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Front OEM IO Coils have 150

Front OEM IO Coils have 150 pound spring rate from factory,

Dobson C43-114 have 220 pound

Kings Springs 175 pound.

Quoted by Sales Guys from both companies

NZIO
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early or late

Do you reckon they're quoting early or late IO springs? I think they must be different weight to give the same ride height with different pan heights..

Claude io
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Kingspring early or late

Johnicue has fitted them to his car, a late model with the 265mm strut (the highest one), kingspring catalogue have only one listed, so it should be safe to say that they are for the late model...I have send an email to kingspring to advice them about this.

So I thing that the braking of Fab's strut was no bad luck at all, that was destiny:)

Happy io

NZIO
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no, I mean...

No I mean was the 150lb rating for the standard early or standard late spring. I think they would be different weights.

Claude io
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rating

Hi Nzio, I might be wrong...hum.... heard that one before. The 245mm strut have an extra half turn more, that we can see, but I don't think that the rating would be different, or not by much anyway. It would be true to think that less spring less rating, but it is only half a turn....and they may have taken this into consideration when they made the spring...I doubt that one! I could imagine some foreign workers noticing the strut being different and cut the spring to match:), Please read with foreign accent: "you bloody idiot, weld plate too high, bloody idiot, have to cut spring..." devil may be not!

One spring might be thicker? again, I don't think so...

Happy io.

NZIO
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True

Half a turn would do it.

Claude io
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Happy io in sight?

Hey Fab, how is the lift going?...

Happy io.

Fab72
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Hello Claud io,Well my

Hello Claud io,

Well my silence from here has been for two reasons.

The first being that I have been flat out at work and my time in the shed and on the computer has been limited.

The other reason is that I have had mixed results.  Allow me to elaborate.  Now bear in mind that the io is currently unregistered so I've only ventured up and down the street (a total of about 200 meters).

Firstly, the front LH spring groans and is binding up when turning.  I backed the top strut nut right off to about 50Nm to see if that made a difference...nope.  The spring is turning in its seat, which suggests a problem with the top bearing.  I'll need to undo the 3 nuts on the strut mount and see if the bearing is turning, I suspect it's not.  Wasn't a problem before I did the lift, but is now.  Coincidence?  Who knows.  But its only on the LHS.  I'll need to dig a bit deaper to root cause and fix that one.

Secondly, the King springs and higher front struts have left the car sitting dead level.  I'm a bit disappointed by this because 3 kids and a bit of weight in the back will have it sitting like a ski boat I suspect.  I noticed Glen on here runs some sort of machined rear spring seat inserts that would take care of my problem. I just need to ask where he got them from, or if he had to have them made up.  That should also fix the other issue that is playing on my mind which is that the King rear springs are actually shorter than the stock ones.  I'm worried (perhaps unneccesarily) that the springs might pop out on full articulation, which is possible because the KYB shocks have more travel than the spring has height.

Then on top of all of this, I have my drivers seat out getting new bolstering in the base.  The "one lady owner" was obviously carrying a few extra kilos and collapsed the foam.  I could feel the wire base through the foam and thought it best get it fixed before it wore through the fabric.

Now for some before and after figures.  Keep in mind that this is inclussive of the change from the 1999 front struts to the later ones with higher spring perches.  These measurements are taken from the ground to wheel arch.

RHF 755 to 815.  Lift 60mm.

LHF 765 to 820.  Lift 55mm.

RHR 790 to 820.  Lift 30mm.

LHR 800 to 825.  Lift 25mm.

 

Front lift average is: 57.5mm

Rear lift average is: 27.5mm

Hence, the whole thing has levelled out more than I expected :(

Some 1inch (25 mm) rear spring spacers would be nice right about now.  Glen....HELP!!!!!!

Stay tuned...more to come.

 

Fab io.

          "Love that car"

Claude io
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lift

Bugger, so even by buying new parts, this car stay challenging:(

I don't think that your noisy front spring will be hard to fix, the top bearing would rarely lock, but by using the air gun and braking the strut you probably compressed that bearing ...a bit too much! I think that you can get away by just replacing it .

For the difference in height, I am a bit lost! may be they are for the lower strut (245mm)?  It might be a good idea to contact the seller, and see if they can get Kingspring to reset the front a bit lower or raise the rear, That could be a good solution. If you keep the around 60mm front lift, you will need to use some strut extender.

Happy io

 

singlecell
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.

Fab, you didnt do something silly like put the top pan on 180 degrees around the wrong way.  I only suggest this as I didnt it once myself when I was in a rush. And did the exact same thing you are getting.

Fab72
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Nah, I did check and re check

Nah, I did check and re check that the top plate was around the right way.  I even made sure the "D" slot lined up perfectly to the flat edge on the strut.

I agree that the noisey LHF spring might have something to do with the circumstances surrounding the broken strut.  Eg: strut broke on disassembly...perhaps it was over torqued and crushed or unseated the bearing.

CLAUD IO .... the rattle gun was only used to disassemble the thing....NEVER to reassemble.  That was all done with hand tools and torque wrenches.  I'm not that much of a cowboy !!!!  Hehe.

At the moment I'm waiting on my seat to come back so I can move it back into the middle of the garage.  I've also sent a private msg to Glen about sourcing some rear spacers.  I don't want to decrease the front lift, so increasing the rear is my preference.  It's either going to be spacers or reset rear springs.  Or worse case senario, some new custom jobs from industrial springs here in Adelaide.

 

Fab (io).

          "Love that car"

NZIO
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Lift

Well, assuming you've got the same BAsprings on the rear as me, then just fit your original springs to the new struts and you should be riding same as me - see my lift thread for the numbers. 60mm suspension lift is too much anyway IMO as you'll be very near the end of the downward travel.

Fab72
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Not using BA Springs

NZIO wrote:
Well, assuming you've got the same BAsprings on the rear as me, then just fit your original springs to the new struts and you should be riding same as me - see my lift thread for the numbers. 60mm suspension lift is too much anyway IMO as you'll be very near the end of the downward travel.

Nah, not using the BA springs.  I'm using King springs.  I bought the front and rears as a set.

Regarding the downwards travel on the front...... I actually don't think it's been reduced at all.  The King springs seem to achieve their "lift" by just being firmer and not compressing as much when loaded but stationary.  In fact, they are shorter than my stock 1999 springs (see pix above).  Many people have achieved lift by keeping their 1999 springs and just changing struts to the later ones, so I don't think I'm any worse off then them... in theory, I should be slightly better off.

I'll post some pix of how it sits on the garage floor at present.

 

Fab

          "Love that car"

NZIO
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Travel

If you've lifted by 60mm in suspension alone then you've not got much travel left. The strut rod is the same length in both new and old. Have you measured the distance from hub centre to wheel arch at rest vs jacked up?
The shorter stiffer spring must be holding it up higher at rest as you say. The old springs won't hold the front up as high and should give the front-rear balance you're after.

Fab72
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Ah NZIO...now I get it!

NZIO wrote:
If you've lifted by 60mm in suspension alone then you've not got much travel left. The strut rod is the same length in both new and old. Have you measured the distance from hub centre to wheel arch at rest vs jacked up? The shorter stiffer spring must be holding it up higher at rest as you say. The old springs won't hold the front up as high and should give the front-rear balance you're after.

Nope haven't done that NZIO.  That's a great point.  I'll take your advice and do the jack up and drop measurement.  I guess I was assuming that the strut with the higher spring perch actually had the strut insert sitting higher in the tube...but now thinking about that, that's not the case.  It's only the perch that changes...not the strut in the tube.

I'll let you know how I get on.

 

Fab (io).

          "Love that car"

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