Lift options & Tires sizes, Look here first

346 replies [Last post]
Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #201
KYB and Monroe both measure

KYB and Monroe both measure their strut lengths from the shoulder of the top of the strut, which is usually at the bottom of the thread,
Down to the centre of the bottom bolt hole, at the bottom of the strut.

As shown in KF65 picture above.

There is a thread on here somewhere where KOOS900 unbolted the top of the struts and measured the extra droop available before the CVs start to bind.

At 50mm extra droop more than stock the CVs were starting to bind.

KOOS990 felt that 40 or 45mm of extra droop was a safer limit without a diff drop.

This was done on a 2002 model which I assume is the high spring pan strut, which is the same as KYB 334405

Matt

Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #202
KYB and Monroe both measure

I got some dimensions for the KYB 334405 strut from a website selling them.

Ext length 553mm or 21.77"
Comp length 388mm or 15.27"
Stroke 165mm or 6.5"

Didtance between bottom bolt hole centres
70mm or 2.75"

Centre of bottom bolt to lowest point on spring pan 285mm

Two other important measurements that It didnt have but will be needed for comparing to other struts are the Thread Size and Thread Length at the top of the strut.

If struts can be found that have the same thread size and at least the same length then they can bolt up to the Stock strut top, making installing them alot easier.

Using the 45mm max safe extra droop, and therefore extra extended strut length, that KOO900 worked out, and using the available KYB 334405 strut length as a starting length.

The max extended length of a replacement front strut would be around 598mm or 23.5"
Without putting excess stress on the CVs at full droop, without a diff drop.

If you are putting a diff drop in then you can increase the max extended strut length by the height of the diff drop spacers.

There fore with a 50mm diff drop the approx safe max extended strut length would be 648mm or 25.5"

If strut mount camber adjusters are used than the height of them should be taken away from the safe extended length.

Matt

Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #203
I looked up some replacement

I looked up some replacement strut lengths on the KYB website.

KYB 335604 for the rear of 2005 XTrail

Extended length 23.688" or 602mm

KF65 measured 595mm ext length for the original 2005 XTrail rear strut.

So both the original and the KYB replacement look like a suitable length.

I couldn't find any info on the Thread. But maybe KF65 will be able to fill us in.

There was mention in a couple of threads about Mitsubishi Outlander and Mazda Tribute struts as possible strut replacement options, so I looked up them.

KYB 334368 Outlander 03-06 Front strut.

Ext length 22.75" or 578mm
Stroke 6.25" or 159mm
Top Mount 12 x 1.25" ( I assume means the thread on the strut top )

The Outlander strut is approx 25mm longer than the replacement IO strut but has slightly less travel.

There was no measurement available on the spring pan to determine if this strut will allow for a larger tyre to be fitted.

KYB 235913 Mazda Tribute / Ford Escape front strut.

ext length 24.92" or 633mm
Comp length 17.71" or 450mm
Stroke 7.21" or 183mm
Top Mount 14 x 2.00"

There was no info on spring pan height or the bolt spacing at the bottom of the strut But the Tribute and Escape can fit 245 75 R16 tyres on there stock rims without scrubbing, so there has to be enough spring pan clearance for them to fit.

The extended length of 633mm means that a Diff Drop of around 35mm would be required to fit this strut to the IO.

I then looked for something longer again and came up with

KYB 339141 Mazda CX9 front strut

Ext length 25.35" or 644mm
comp length 16.53" or 420mm
Stroke 8.82" or 224mm
Top mount 14 x 1.5"

No info on the position of the strut pan available and the strut would require an almost 50mm diff drop to not bind CVs

I couldn't find a catalog with lengths of KYB struts, so I downloaded a Monroe catalog of strut lengths and part numbers.

I found out that Monroe call this type of strut B11.

I looked through the catalog looking at extextended strut lengths of B11 type struts.

then I googled the part number and found out what car it belonged to.
then I looked up the KYB website for part numbers and strut info for that car.

If you know what length strut you are after you could do the same as I did and find a car that has a strut with the dimensions you are after.

The valving of the strut will be different depending on the weight of the car and its intended purpose.
Finding a car with a similar weight to the IO would probably help get the valving closest to what's suitable for the iO.

Matt

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #204
strut

Some good thinking and research here.

While it is true that the CV is binding at full droop with a 50 mm lift (or about) The consequence of this might not be as dramatic as one could think.

It will be nice to find a similar strut as ours (50.8mm body) but with a wider body to able us to fit the koni insert.

Happy io

Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #205
Possible Strut choice

Claude io wrote:

It will be nice to find a similar strut as ours (50.8mm body) but with a wider body to able us to fit the koni insert.

Happy io

I haven't looked into it too much, but the 96-99 model Toyota Rav4 had Serviceable front struts.

So they are designed to accept inserts.
There is a flanged nut at the top of the strut that holds the strut insert in place inside the strut body, so bolt holes through the bottom wouldn't be necessary.

The 00-06 models changed over to replacement struts and they are the B11 type and are an option as a replacement on the 96-99 models too.

I have no idea about spring pan position on the serviceable struts but that probably wouldn't bother you since you were intending to modify them anyway.

Depending on the body length of the Koni insert for the Pajero IO, it could be a as simple as droping Koni IO insert straight into the serviceable Rav4 strut and then assembling the strut and bolting it straight in.

Matt

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #206
struts

I'm exploring fitting the mazda tribune struts as I've yet to see how far up the strut the mounting plate is - yes they are longer but the bolt holes could be higher or drilled higher on the mount-plate.

given the amount of space we have below the strut and above the CV i'd prefer to maximize travel by encroaching in this area - or mount the strut top pivots higher either above the tower tops or with a different mounting

.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #207
The rav4 struts have 60mm

The rav4 struts have 60mm centre bolt holes on the bottom so I suppose you could drill or file out the top one to lift the bottom spring pan away from the tyre, not sure if it offers more space between the tyre as I didn't bother measure it because of the bolt holes.

The x-trail ones do the job with xtra travel BUT I do have cv noise coming from the drivers outer but not the other so I think it could be worn or dry. Taking it off today to look. I used the iO's spring and the top pan. I tried the x-trails spring but really didn't offer and more lift and was weaker so it bottomed out when bouncing it.

So now I have about 40mm lift and plenty of room for larger tyres.

I have thought about fitting a coil over shock (strut) with a smaller botoom pan and making up different mounting brackets but that is a experiment for a later date.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #208
Ok good news it wasn't my

Ok good news it wasn't my cv's. They are fine and so are the wheel bearings. Bad news is the drivers side brake line was rubbing on the inside of the rim and has rubbed nearly all the way thru so if your putting different struts on pay xtra attenion to your brake lines and position them well out of the way of everything.

Tomorrow I have to do a wheel alignment and the job is done. Made the spacers and they done the job very well so I am very happy with the results all up.

X-trail struts are perfect for the iO's with only minor adjustments to steering and making a couple of spacers. Recommended. (Thumbs Up).

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #209
Ok final results of front

Ok final results of front lift on a 99 iO wagon.

What I used: 2005 X-trail rear struts. I had to use the iO's spring and top pan and the bottom bolt holes are the same as the iO's (70mm) and with the X-trail struts when compressed they are the same as the iO's (395mm) and when decompressed you get an extra 50mm of travel (great for the bush). 

Mods that needed doing: really the only mods that needed doing was 4 rectangle spacers (90x25x3mm) with holes drilled 70mm apart as the gap on the lower bracket on the X-trail is 30mm and the iO's are 22.5mm. Don't use washers as you don't get the whole area being supported and may get movement later on causing bolts to come loose or brackets (struts) breaking down on the bottom.

Be careful of how you position your brake lines as I have nearly rubbed all the way thru my drivers side because it was hitting on the inside of the rim . So now I have to go and replace it and while i do that I am going to bleed my whole break system just to freshen up the whole system and have clean fluid thru out.

Wheel alignment: I found that with the difference in the size of the mounting holes on the bottom that if you push the bottom of the strut inwards and then tighten up the bolts the camber is almost perfect. Then all you need to do is adjust the toe which on mine was about 1 to 2 turns out on each tie rod. Make sure you do equal turns on each side otherwize you will put your steering wheel out of centre and also have more lock on one side that the other.

As for ride height or lift it gave me around 40mm Plus the option to put larger tyres on as the bottom pan is 35mm higher than the iO's so now i can go for a 225 or 235/75 or 80 without hitting the bottom pan. When I do that I will get another 25mm or more on top of what has already been done so more ground clearance under the car. Just with the 225's or wider they will hit on the chassis so I guess a bigger offset of rims is next or spacers.

This is my 1st attempt of modifying any 4X4's suspension and I am very happy with the outcome but I can't take all credit for this. After reading very carefully thru the previous posts and every ones eles input on here and doing some research of my own (hrs at the wreckers) I think I have come up with the perfect front lift for our iO's without to much mucking around.

If you guys have any questions just ask and I will try and answer the best I can. 

Now all I have to do now is the rear springs to make the car look normal from front to rear.

Thanks guy's for all the other info on here that has help me to achieve what I have with mine.

Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #210
Bolt hole diameter?

kf65 wrote:

Wheel alignment: I found that with the difference in the size of the mounting holes on the bottom that if you push the bottom of the strut inwards and then tighten up the bolts the camber is almost perfect. Then all you need to do is adjust the toe which on mine was about 1 to 2 turns out on each tie rod.

Are you saying that although the bolt holes at the bottom of the strut have a spacing of 70mm, like the io, that the diameter of the bolt holes are larger?

If that is the case, I would think that the the smaller IO bolt will move around in the larger strut hole every time you hit a pot hole or hard bump.

I have read about people sloting or lengthening the top bolt holes on struts to allow for camber adjustment and even with only one bolt hole allowing for movement, there were people commenting about the bolt moving when hitting potholes.

Matt

Fab72
Fab72's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/01/2012
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #211
Hey KF65, Well done mate. 

Hey KF65,

Well done mate.  Sounds great.  Could you please post your ride height measured front the centre of your front wheel to the front gaurd lip.  I'm curious to see how it compares to new struts with old style springs and strut to body spacers.

Cheers.

P.S..... does anyone else have to type really slow to prevent letters from being skipped from your text?

Fab.

          "Love that car"

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #212
strut

[quote=kf65]

Wheel alignment: I found that with the difference in the size of the mounting holes on the bottom that if you push the bottom of the strut inwards and then tighten up the bolts the camber is almost perfect. Then all you need to do is adjust the toe which on mine was about 1 to 2 turns out on each tie rod. Make sure you do equal turns on each side otherwize you will put your steering wheel out of centre and also have more lock on one side that the other.

 

About the wheel alignment, did you do it yourself ? 1 turn on one side is a lot already, 2 turn on both side is a big adjustment. As to center the steering wheel, you should have waited to lift the rear. Once you lift the rear it will change the center of the steering wheel (it won't be straight anymore)

Regarding the bolt moving at the bottom of the strut, as mentioned by other, it will move. It might be a good idea to weld the hole to adjust it perfectly to the bolt. Depending what need adjusting, if it is the strut, some washer ( same size as the bolt) welded on the side should be perfect.

You said that the spring was too soft and then used the io spring. This might mean that the strut will be too soft as well and this could shorten the life of the strut, and/or could give you handling problem. 

This said, some good research/work.

What is the diameter of the tube ? if it is over 51/52 mm, we could fit the koni insert in it. any pics ?

Happy io

 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #213
A couple of points ...

First - the external diameter of the XTrail rear strut is pretty much identical to that of the iO - that was one of the things I checked on my daughters car.

Second - based on my research the XTrail rear spring & the iO front spring have very similar spring rates, I think the XTrail is 160 lb/in and the iO is supposedy 150 lb/in  the big difference is in the free length, the iO springs are quite a bit longer than the XTrail, so when the struts are assembled there is significant preload on the iO springs, which should have no or little impact on the damping - what may be more critical is the "sprung mass", which is what actually needs to be damped.

The sprung mass of the iO would be fairly easy to determine (just weigh the front end), the sprung mass of the XTrail is going to be a variable - depending on the number of passengers & luggage - it's a five seater by design, with quite a bit of load space.

Third - properly done, lifting the rear will have ZERO impact on the steering - the problem is that most people either don't address the issue of the panhard rod correctly or don't address it at all.

When the rear of the vehice is lifted, the panhard rod sits at an angle and pulls the axle to the left, off setting the thrust line - lengthening the panhard rod to re-center the axle is the most common, but not the best solution - fabricating a mount or bracket to either lift the axle end or lower the body end of the panhard rod to return it to horizontal with the vehicle at it's new "rest height" is what needs to be done.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #214
Hey Fab, from wheel arch to

Hey Fab, from wheel arch to centre of hub (wheel) it is 465mm and from ground to wheel arch it's 795mm. And i don't have spacers on top of strut. Just the spacers I needed to make for the difference where they bolt on down the bottom.

Regarding holes: now I have the position set I will be welding and re drilling the holes to suit and I just need to make a small adjustment on the toe of wheels. I went to much so just have to decrease it today as it got to dark last njght and couldn't see properly. The spacers hold it all in place very well down the bottom and it won't move but will be welding it anyways just incase.

And with the wheel alignment you don't need to adjust it when raising the rear, there is no affect on the front wheels at all. Just have to make sure that you keep the centre of steering where it should be so you don't change the full lock from side to side when raising the front and the toe and camber.

Yeh I have been doing my own wheel alignments for years and have always got it within 1 - 2mm of specs of what it should be so there is no worries there.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #215
So all up still very happy

So all up still very happy with results even tho minor adjustments needed to finish it off but they have to be done as I don't want anything to go wrong later down the track and be stuck on the side of the road some where or out in the bush.

So next is the rear and then larger tyres when I can afford them.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #216
nope

kf65 wrote:

And with the wheel alignment you don't need to adjust it when raising the rear, there is no affect on the front wheels at all. Just have to make sure that you keep the centre of steering where it should be so you don't change the full lock from side to side when raising the front and the toe and camber.

Yeh I have been doing my own wheel alignments for years and have always got it within 1 - 2mm of specs of what it should be so there is no worries there.

Sorry but as Bob like to say....Nope !!, changing the rear level of your car does have an effect on your front W/A, saying that it doesn't is just plain wrong but not that much in this case and this is not why I mentioned that you will have to do the W/A again. I explain...

Lifting the rear of the io does have an effect on the 4 wheels alignment (front to rear alignment).  Because of the panhard rod your rear axle won't square your front axle anymore once lifted, changing the thrust line and the steering will be off center, unless as Fordem said you re-adjust your panhard rod to square everything again.. With 50 mm lift or under, not many bother re-adjusting the panhard rod. Another way (to center the steering wheel) is to adjust the steering rack to compensate, in order to do that you will have to do a W/A again (toe set). This is why I mentioned this. And yes this will have your steering rack a bit off center.

As to do your W/A yourself and get it within 1-2 mm of specs....very well done yes

Happy io

 

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #217
So much more room now for

So much more room now for bigger tyres but the back looks odd now until I raise that up.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #218
Hey guy's I have just found

Hey guy's I have just found out some thing very interesting, not only does the mazda astina springs fit but also the ford laser KL 94 - 99 front are the raised pajero io rear. Part number is KFFS-90. And there are a shit load of them at any one wreckers. Good luck.

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #219
Just a suggestion.

When making the spacer plates for the bottom end of the strut - match the hole size to the iO knuckle (should be 12mm) and then weld those to the edge of the strut ears.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #220
Yeh mate already did that.

Yeh mate already did that. Once I had the camber right I welded the steel spacers in to the bottom of the strut and now she's good as gold. 

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #221
I done the rear springs today

I done the rear springs today and they gave me a 40mm lift, not bad considering they are secondhand. Would like to see what new ones would do.

Now the car looks even again. Just need to fix the front brake lines tomorrow.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #222
lift

The spring might settle a little...still great value to do it that way !

Happy io

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #223
Can't complain for only $40

Can't complain for only $40 and some time at the wreckers.

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #224
same vehicle platform

kf65 wrote:

Hey guy's I have just found out some thing very interesting, not only does the mazda astina springs fit but also the ford laser KL 94 - 99 front are the raised pajero io rear. Part number is KFFS-90. And there are a shit load of them at any one wreckers. Good luck.

Mazda Astina and ford laser are the same vehicle platfom and share springs - there is also a volvo vivo in the UK that also shares the platform.

no-one has tried the v6 astina springs though - they might be firmer and offer more lift

.

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #225
xtrail stroke

what was the stroke of the xtrail struts?

just measured my io and i'm also 465mm hub to guard running kyb's and old io springs + spacer

.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #226
To be honest Bob I measured

To be honest Bob I measured the V6 ones and they are similar but I wouldn't go with them because the 4cyl mod are just that little bit stiffer than the iO's and think the V6 would be to much unless you were towing something all the time. 

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #227
Appears to be 200mm - from #192 in this thread.

kf65 wrote:

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #228
Not sure what you guys need

Not sure what you guys need to know between the 2 of you. All I know is that when the shock (strut) is compressed down both are 395mm from centre of the bottom bolt hole. When extended the x-trail was 50mm longer. I measured mine on the front sitting on the ground from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch and it was 415mm then after I put the x-trail rear struts on the front it measured 465mm so going by that it gave me 50mm. Now I have done the rear with the Mazda/Ford springs it has giving me another 40mm on the rear.

But now with the X-trail shocks (struts) on the front I get an extra 50mm of travel downwards and I don't have any spacers on top of the struts. If I did I would get another 25mm or more but I don't nead it and would probably cause problems with my cv's if I did. 

When I change the tyres to a 225/75or80 it will lift the car another 25mm plus and also now I have plenty of room under the bottom pan as they are 35mm higher than the iO's.

The spacers that are mentioned are the ones I needed to make to reduce the space where the strut bolts on down the bottom. 3/25/110mm spacers and then welded them to the strut and not the hub (2 on each side).

The diagram that I put up was with everything still on the car so it might have been out by a few mm but was very close.

Trust me if you can get hold of some 2005 X-trail rear struts, get them for the front of your iO. I have only driven the car for 1 day since doing both front and rear and have found it rides way better and no clunk between gears now and just a little bit more stiff but it needed it. But the real test will be on the weekend when i go out and try it in the bush.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #229
Before and after shots. The

Before and after shots. The front already done, this is the difference in the rear. And the ride is so much better.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #230
.

How did you do the outside  "sun visor"

Happy io

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #231
I used a carboard template to

I used a carboard template to get the shape and length, Then I used aliminium sheeting that is used for signs. It's very light but also strong and has 1mm aliminium on both sides and around 2 or 3mm rubber compound in the middle and is easy to cut. Then I bought 3 shelving brackets from bunnings and cut them at the bend and used rivets to put them on the sun visor but before I did that I put the fibre wrap on. Black one side and silver the other. I really only done it to stop the glare from the lights on top.

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #232
Hello guys, I'm David from

Hello guys,

I'm David from Romania, I have a 2001 Pinin LWB 2.0 GDI that I want to lift the proper way, using bigger tires. I bought Cooper S/T MAXX 225/75/R16 already, but they don't fit the front strut angry I think I have the KYB 334813 that is 245mm, and I need to get the KYB 334405. 

Here is my topic on the romanian 4x4 community: http://forum.club4x4.ro/topic/24485-mitsubishi-pajero-pinin-20-gdi

The think is the dealers here are kind of stupid, and cannot find me the part I want without a VIN code. With my VIN I get the short kayaba that I don't want. They said they need a VIN of a 2002 to 2007 model to search for the suspension I want. If anyone could help me out, I'd be a very happy guy right now.

Thanks!

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #233
struts

Hi - I have a 2002 io that came with the higher struts as standard.

the KYB #334405 is the strut you want, when you fit your low-strut springs into it you will also get a little lift.

the mitsubishi part no for the equivalent strut should be MR992092, 
MR 554613 is an older one as far as I know, as is MR519092
and MR319792 is the really old short one

use my VIN:JMFMNH67W22000305 to double check - 

.

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #234
Hi Bob! Thanks, I will try.

Hi Bob! Thanks, I will try. However when I gave them the part number KYB 334405, they said it doesn't exist. I've searched myself on the KYB catalogue in Germany, and get no results: http://www.kayaba.de/index.php?id=20&typnr=

The only valid part in the catalogue is KYB 334813, the old one. I will give them the VIN and hope it gets something, but other than that I don't know what to do.

 

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #235
strut

I think that I have heard something similar before...not 100 % sure as it was a while ago. That KYB is only available in Europe with the low spring plate and they only sell the high spring plate in Australia (they definitely don't sell the low spring plate here). Another thing that I found (again not 100 % sure!!) is that Koni make an insert for the io but to fit, the body of the strut have to be over 51mm, this might be the case in Europe (maybe you could confirm ??) but our strut in Australia are made with a 2 inches tube...or 50.8 mm and the Koni insert doesn't fit (sadly 100% sure here as I tried !!)

What you could do is keep trying to find the high spring plate strut or check if your strut can take the koni insert (body over 51mm) and extend the body of the strut (cut and weld). This have been done in Greece. Other option do exist...as trying to find a strut that fit from another car or make a bracket at the lower section of the strut.

I hope this will help...

Happy io

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #236
I can't find KYB 334405 or

I can't find KYB 334405 or Koni shocks in Europe, at least not for my Pinin. I've emailed euro4x4parts myself and they said they no longer bring the part number I found here on the forum for Europe (2 x AMJ1085 Kayaba) as they had problem with those, and they will try to find me a replacement, so I am still waiting. Still can't believe no one of the big producers have any good aftermarket options for the Pinin.

GuyG
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 25/03/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #237
What country are you in?

What country are you in?  Have you seen these? http://www.spring-loaded.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=Kayaba~-~KYB~Excel-G~Shock~Absorber~-~334405

EDIT - Just read you are in Romania.  Maybe they will ship them to you?

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #238
Thanks

GuyG wrote:

What country are you in?  Have you seen these? http://www.spring-loaded.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=Kayaba~-~KYB~Excel-G~Shock~Absorber~-~334405

EDIT - Just read you are in Romania.  Maybe they will ship them to you?

 

Thanks GuyG, I will ask them if they are willing to ship to Romania.

dareqq
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 16/01/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #239
ITS very interesting to put

ITS very interesting to put xtrail struts in to IO. Im from Poland and i dont understund extacly what have to be done with xtrail struts to fit them in to Pajero pinin. Can you make more pictures showing what to do with struts ?

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #240
OK guys, so I talked to Nick

OK guys, so I talked to Nick from euro4x4parts myseft today, and got some bad news:

 

Hi David,
Thanks for your enquiry. As you know, the Pinin is a difficult 4x4 to lift.
We used to have a coil kit that offered a 3cm lift but there were problems and we stopped supplying these.
The struts we supply (AMJ1367 and AMK1000) both have standard height coil pans and as such don't give any lift.
Sorry to disappoint.

Best regards
 
Nick

 

Nick OULD
international sales & marketing manager
 
So this means the suspension that some of you guys might have used (the 285mm one) might be faulty. I asked if the part numbers they use now are 265mm ones, or 245mm, as I might still have a change to fit it if this is at least 265mm.
 
Regards,
David
 
Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #241
285??

So this means the suspension that some of you guys might have used (the 285mm one) might be faulty. I asked if the part numbers they use now are 265mm ones, or 245mm, as I might still have a change to fit it if this is at least 265mm.

 
Regards,
David
 

[/quote]

Not sure what you mean by : (the 285mm one). We only have the 265mm or the 245mm....

What is the outside diameter of your strut ? The koni insert is avail in Europe, at least greece have them and it could be an option or even a coil over....

The cost to freight for one of us to send you the strut would be too expensive.

Happy io

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #242
I'm sorry I didn't get a

I'm sorry I didn't get a change to measure the diameter, as I left the car back to my parent's house. I will go there during the weekend to check. 

According to this site, the KYB 334405 was 285mm:

http://www.spring-loaded.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=Kayaba~-~KYB~Excel-G~...

Dimensions
Open Length - Centre of bottom bolt hole to end of piston rod just before threads = 553mm
Closed Length - Centre of bottom bolt hole to end of piston rod just before threads = 388mm
Centre to centre of bolt holes = 69.9mm 
Centre of bottom bolt hole to lowest point on bottom of spring pan = 285mm

 

Nick said the part number 334405 was not good. 

 

EDIT: Nick confirmed both parts are the old short ones :((

 

Hi David,
We've just measured AMG1367 and AMK1000 and they are both 245mm
Regards

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #243
Find the strut data thread ...

The strut data thread shows how that 245/265 mm is measured.

Matt NP Pajero
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #244
strut measurements

fordem wrote:

The strut data thread shows how that 245/265 mm is measured.

The 245 and 265 measurements are to the weld underneath the spring pan.

The 285mm kyb length is from the website selling them and may be measured up to the underside of the spring pan.

KYB 334405 is the same as and replacement for the strut that measured 265mm to the weld under the spring pan.

I found the strut data thread.
Link below.
http://www.pajerio.com/forum/strut-data

Matt

Hyadum
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 02/06/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #245
Strut diameter

Claude io wrote:

What is the outside diameter of your strut ? The koni insert is avail in Europe, at least greece have them and it could be an option or even a coil over....

The cost to freight for one of us to send you the strut would be too expensive.

Happy io

 

Hi Claude, so I measured the outside diameter of the strut and it's 50.93mm, so yeah almost 51mm, but inside will be far less.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #246
strut

50.93mm, it is then bigger than ours (in Australia)  but not enough to say at 100 % that the koni insert will fit. If you would have found 52 or 53 it would have been better!

Regarding the 334405, this number is from aftermarket KYB. I do know that the original strut is made by the same company but they gave it a different number when it is sold by themself (334405 sold by KYB here). This could explain why Mitsubishi cannot find it as it could be listed under another ref number.

I kept an old strut to do a koni insert (sadly it cannot be done here) but this strut is an original one and the ref number is MR 992092. It is the strut that allow to fit the 225/75/016, at least the one I have in front of me right now!  Might be worth a search with that ref....

I have just search on Amayama and they do list it. Not sure if they post to where you are....and a quick google search is showing a few more result.

http://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/pajero_io/h67w/mnxc/front-suspension/fron...

Happy io

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #247
If you want the Mitsubishi numbers,

they are available in the strut data thread, along with cross references to Tokico & KYB aftermarket replacements, from both the KYB Japan & KYB Europe catalogues.  KYB Europe does not supply the "high pan" strut replacements - as far as I can determine those were never used on the European market vehicles, which were, I believe, built in Italy.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #248
Just use the rear X-trail

Just use the rear X-trail struts for the front of the iO and you get more droop, better handling and all the info needed is in previous comments on this thread. And offers around a 45mm lift using the io springs on the x-trail strut.. I put Suzuki rims on and can put a 235/75/16 on with no problems.

 

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #249
And because I know how to do

And because I know how to do wheel alignments and camber by myself I saved a crap load without having to take it to a tyre place. It has been awhile since I have done it and have had not a single problem and very happy with how it performs onroad and offroad now the front and rear has been done.

Keith65
Keith65's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 01/02/2015
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #250
The X=trail struts offer alot

The X=trail struts offer alot more height for bigger tyres than what the high pan io's do, an xtra 35mm by memory. And the suzuki or toyota rav4 rims have a better offset which allows for wider tyres so in my view stop mucking around with the high pan iO struts and just go the x-trail and you will be happy with what can be done.

Syndicate

Syndicate content

Translate This Site Into Your Language